Spring is a hugely important time for optimising wine quality - even though the wine isn't even in berry-form yet!
The season so far has been a mixed-bag. Like most of Australia, Eden Valley is very dry, and late frosts were threatening, but the canopies are looking good and the bunches are promising.
Maybe it's just because we're a family of farming nerds, but we find the complexities in vineyard management fascinating - there's so much to think about to maximise grape quality and yield.
For those into the science of wine, here's a few vineyard topics on our minds this time of year:
Canopy Management
Managing vine canopy is a precarious balance between a range of factors - the right sunlight for grape quality, ripening rate, sunburn risk and disease are all quite important, and there's also water efficiency, ease of managing bird nets, and how pretty the vines look, to consider.
This year we are doing less manipulation than usual. We often remove excess shoots and pluck lots of leaves, but this year is dry and summer is forecast to be hot, so we're leaving a little more canopy for shade than usual, and will control any excess vigour through managing soil moisture.
"Our Shiraz uses a 'lazy ballerina' system"
Our Shiraz uses a 'lazy ballerina' system, where we use a series of wires to hold up the shoots, with the eastern side vertical but the western side angled out for more afternoon shade (hence the name, imagine a ballerina with one arm up and one lazy arm). Lazy Ballerina is great for airflow, balanced sun exposure and also looks quite nice! Some years we still need to pluck leaves in the Shiraz, but this year we think it looks perfect as is.
Soil Moisture
We've teched-up our operation this year, investing in bluetooth soil moisture monitoring. In years of drought like this, grape quality factors will suffer without watering in our vineyard, but it's a delicate balance, so soil moisture probes are a great way to accurately monitor what is happening under the soil (and give us pretty graphs to go 'ooh' at).
To grow the best quality grapes with reasonable yields, the vines need different soil moisture targets at different times. Before and during flowering (late spring), a nice moist soil is key in developing healthy bunches with good fruit set (lots of berries), and a solid canopy to provide the right shade and photosynthesis for ripening later in the season.
'A little stress can get quality results'
Once the berries have set, however, a little stress can get quality results in red varieties (known as deficit irrigation). Keeping the vines a little stressed results in multiple changes, with smaller berries one factor in a high skin to pulp ratio, the skin having a lot of the desirable wine characters we're looking for so the more the better. Deficit irrigation is also a good tool for making sure the vine doesn't concentrate on canopy growth, which wastes energy and water and can delay ripening.
Later again, after the berries change colour (known as veraison, which happens late Jan), studies have found no benefit from deficit irrigation, and there is a significant risk of yield loss in hot weather, so we prefer to reduce the stress on the vines during this phase, with minimal watering, only where required to sneak the soil moisture into a lower stress range. With our shiny new graphs, we can be much more precise in our irrigation scheduling - and save water, while maximising quality.
There's plenty of research by AWRI we love to get amongst and are happy to send links if you're interested in the detail.
The Two-Year Vine Cycle
A tricky detail about growing grapes is that unlike annual crops, vines have a 'memory' of the past conditions that lasts over multiple years. This means V'20 buds were developed last season, complete with a maximum number of bunches and berries already 'coded in'.
'Vines have a memory of the past'
This matters because it means that this year's 'best case' yield was already defined last season, in what was a really low yielding season. So even if everything went perfectly this season, we'd be starting off with a factor that needs to be accounted for in managing V'20. This also means that growers who have lost their crop this year due to frost will lose yield next year, but from a more positive perspective it means everything we do to look after the vines each season also benefits the next season.
This might be a little bit of detail for the punters at home, but fun to share.